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For the Spring 2020 womenswear line, Jun Takahashi drew inspiration directly from the dark menswear collection he revealed earlier. While the menswear featured graphic jacquards and patchwork prints predominantly in black and as suits, he expanded his color palette and silhouettes for women, using similar techniques but with vibrant colors. To move away from his signature graphics, especially after collaborating with Valentino for multiple seasons, Takahashi created textural collages on his pieces by combining different fabrics in matching colors.
For instance, a Schiaparelli pink camp shirt showcased a tree-like Virgin Mary under a crescent moon, while a slate blazer displayed a large bat carrying a woman in its claws on the back. A gray cat elegantly moved across a tee, and butterflies swarmed a shirt-and-skirt ensemble. This collection marked the culmination of Takahashi’s recent fascination with horror themes: symbols of a mysterious, eerie darkness envisioned by him, free from external influences, transformed into three-dimensional creations instead of the usual flat, two-dimensional screen prints.
This is the kind of fashion that sticks with you in all the best ways. The concept of generating patterns without traditional printing methods continued with star embroideries, the blending of different garments, and the adaptation of Cindy Sherman’s Untitled Film Stills into denim jacquard pieces. Admittedly, a few prints did make their way in, featuring Edward Gorey’s illustrations; a real treat for the vampire and glam-pire fans of Undercover. Paired with vibrant tulle skirts, neon lace bralettes, and cute heart and cat themed accessories, this collection, while not primarily focused on graphics, became instantly desirable from a visual standpoint. The lookbook images, somewhat drained of color, serve as a form of visual rebellion, no doubt. Yet, while admiring these vivid images, one couldn’t help but imagine how stunning these outfits would appear on a runway. The level of artistry showcased undoubtedly deserved it.
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